Post by Landhermie on Jul 11, 2006 23:33:29 GMT -5
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Basic Hermit Crab Care
v Yay! I’m getting a hermit crab!
Congratulations on choosing one of my favorite exotic pets! Hermit crabs are clean, disease-free, cute, fun, and inexpensive. Hermit crabs come from tropical regions; therefore, they have a few easy, yet essential requirements for their “home away from home” (which we like to call a crabitat). Once these basic requirements are met, you will find hermit crabs to be a relatively simple yet rewarding pet to care for.
Provided the proper high humidity level, a substrate they can dig in, and plenty of fresh and salt water, food, toys, and extra shells, your hermit crab will live up to 25 years and grow from the size of a marble to the size of a baseball!
Which one do I pick?
First, don’t pick just one! Unlike their name would suggest, “hermit” crabs are actually quite social, and get lonely without friends. Crab companions should only be other hermit crabs though; do not place them in the same tank as other reptiles, amphibians, or mammals. A healthy crab will come out of its shell and wave its antennae happily when you place it on your hand (hold your hand flat so it can’t pinch!). Some crabs get scared when you pick them up and stay tight in their shell. If you have observed the crab walking around with its antennae waving, it should be healthy, and with patience will learn not to be scared of you. With practice, you can even hand-feed them!
What kind is it?
All land hermit crab species (except the giant coconut crab) begin with the name Coenobita (C.). They are born in the ocean, but quickly grow up to live on ocean beaches as well as further inland. Do not confuse them with marine hermit crabs, which spend their whole lives in the ocean. The most common kind is the Purple Pincher (C. Clypeatus), which has a big purple pincher with light-orange to dark-red legs. Another kind you are likely to find is the Ecuadorian (C. Compressus), which has smaller claws, gray-green to tan coloring, and big eyes that look like “<)”. Recently, Ruggies (C. Rugosus) and Indos (C. Brevimanus) have been gaining popularity. Ruggies come in all colors of the rainbow and have stitch-marks on their big claw and a big, bright back left leg. Indos are uniform lavender to dark purple with an unusually large big pincher. Different species can be mixed together, but you should have at least two of each species.
v So, I need some supplies, right?
Yep. You’ll need something from each of the following categories, available at pet stores and on-line:
Hermie needs warmth and humidity!
Humidity gauge (hygrometer)
Hermit crabs breathe using modified gills: not quite fish gills; not quite human lungs. Their gills must remain moist at all times or they will slowly suffocate. It is therefore essential that their crabitat have sufficient humidity. A humidity gauge, which can be purchased with reptile supplies, is one of the most important crab supplies. Ideal humidity is between 70 and 80% relative. By contrast, most houses are only at 40-50%. Do not let your crabs go below 60% for extended periods of time. Also, do not let your crabitat stay above 80%, or you might get fuzzy mold.
Temperature Gauge (thermometer)
Along with humidity, our tropical friend needs warmth. The ideal temperature is between 72 and 79 degrees F. If the temperature falls below 70 degrees for too long, they begin to go dormant. However, unlike hibernating bears, crabbies don’t always survive their dormant state if left cold too long.
Under-tank heater or moon/night glow bulbs
One of the more common ways to keep your crabitat warm is to use an under-tank heater (UTH). If you place it on one side of the bottom of the tank, it gives them an option of a cool side and a warm side. The UTH will keep the sand warm, but not the air, so the temperature gauge may not register much change. You can feel the sand with your hand though to make sure it’s not cold. Heat lamps should not be used because they dry out the tank too much, fluorescent lights don’t raise the temperature enough, and heat rocks can burn your hermies. However, low-wattage (15w to 25w) incandescent bulbs in the tank lid work very well at keeping the air and ground warm. Special night- or moon-glow bulbs are the best (since crabs are nocturnal), and they can be kept on at night.
Crabby needs a home!
Glass aquarium or terrarium
This is by far the best home for your crab. The glass helps keep the temperature stable, and is easy to clean. A 10 gallon tank is very cheap, and an ideal starter-home. A cover for the tank is essential, as it keeps in the extra humidity crabs need to survive. A glass or plexi-glass cover is ideal, but a cheaper mesh cover will also work – provided that you seal about 70% of the mesh with saran wrap to keep in the humidity. A glass cover should be propped open slightly to allow air circulation.
Critter keepers
These plastic cages are not recommended as permanent homes, but will work as temporary homes, for transportation, or to isolate molting or sick crabs. They are typically more expensive than a similarly sized glass tank, and the plastic does not retain heat well and breaks easily. The slotted-cover will need to be mostly sealed with saran wrap to keep in humidity – the same as with mesh aquarium covers. Also, wire cages are never a good home.
Crab-approved substrates
Crabs don’t just walk on their substrate, they dig in it! Crabs need to be able to dig and bury themselves to relieve stress, molt, and, well, just for fun! Your substrate needs to be deeper than – preferably twice as deep as – your largest crab. When molting season comes around, you’ll be fascinated by the holes and mounds in your substrate.
Sand
Sand is probably one of the best substrates for hermit crabs. When it gets moist, it’s like building a sand castle; the crabs have an easy time playing in it. Playsand, sandblasting sand, and beach sand all work well. Playsand is cheap enough (a couple dollars for 50lbs) that you can just replace it once a month rather than clean it. The downside to sand is that it can be messy. You can bake the sand if you’re worried that it’s contaminated with mildew or bugs.
Compressed coconut fiber
This type of substrate comes in brick-shaped blocks. When soaked in water, it expands to fill a tank. Crabs love molting in this stuff, but it has the tendency to bring bugs and insects into the tank during the summer. If you choose to try this, it is recommended that it’s kept in a separate container, with the rest of the tank filled with sand or gravel. This way the mess is contained, and crabs who don’t like it can have an option.
Crushed coral
This substrate is often used for reef tanks, and can be expensive, but provides a great source of calcium. The fine-grained crushed coral is easier for the crabs to dig in than the coarse-grained type (it comes in both varieties).
Gravel
Some crabs don’t like to walk on messy sand or coco-fiber all day, so gravel is a good option to give them. The crabs still need something to dig in, so you should provide one of the diggable substrates as well, either in a half-n-half setting, or place one in a separate container or partition. The gravel must be smooth to the touch, or it can scratch the crabs’ legs, and it must say “aquarium safe” on the bag.
Calcium-carbonate sand
While this sand provides an excellent source of calcium for your crabs, it clumps like cat litter when moistened, so it is unsuitable as a primary substrate, but could be used as an option in a separate container, or sprinkled in the food.
Bark, wood chips, and dirt
None of these are good substrates. Bark and wood chips keep the tank too dry, will mold if wet, and crabs can’t properly dig in them. Aromatic woods such as cedar and pine can be harmful to crabs. Dirt will have microbes.
Extra shells
Hermit crabs have a soft, delicate abdomen. In order to keep it protected, they wear shells on their backs. These shells are not a physical part of the crab; rather they are borrowed from other shellfish. As the crab grows, it will need to move into bigger and bigger shells. Some crabs just love to change shells for fun, or to find a better fit. The perfect sized shell has a circular or oval shaped opening the size of the crab’s big pincher; however, some crabs enjoy shells that are either too big or too small for them. Crabs cannot fit their bodies into shells that have thin openings. You should provide at least two shells of each size needed by your crabs. If a crab does not have enough shell choices, he may try to force another crab out of its shell and steal it. Neither you (nor another crab!) should ever try to force a crab out of its shell. Shells should be boiled in water before given to crabs to ensure they are clean.
Crabs gotta eat and drink too!
Food and water dishes
You’ll need to provide three bowls or dishes in your crabitat: one for food, one for fresh water, and one for salt-water. Don’t use metal dishes, because metal in their water is harmful. Be aware that lighter dishes will occasionally be overturned by the crabs! The water dishes need to be big enough to fit a sponge as well as a bathing crab, and to hold enough water to maintain the humidity level of the tank. If you have small crabs, you will need a sponge or rocks in the bottom of the bowl so they don’t drown.
Sponges
You’ll need at least two sponges. One sponge should always be in the water bowl because it helps disperse the necessary humidity throughout the tank. The other sponge is so that you can swap them once or twice a week – if a sponge sits wet too long, it can grow harmful bacteria.
De-chlorinated water
If you want to use tap water or bottled drinking water, you’ll need to purchase a dechlorinizer/water conditioner (commonly available with fish supplies). Place a few drops (read the label) into a gallon water jug, stir, and let it sit overnight. This will last for a month. The chlorine and other chemicals in tap water can otherwise be harmful to the crabs. Bottled natural spring water is also OK. There is some concern that distilled or RO water may not have all the nutrients crabs need.
Salt-water
Most species of hermit crabs live on beaches, and thus require a source of salt-water. Do not use table salt however – the iodine is dangerous to them! Use marine salt, which is sold with fish supplies. It is usually purchased in bags or tubs, and usually one-half cup of salt (read the label, 1lb ~ 1cup) makes one gallon of water. You also need to dechlorinate the salt-water, so follow the above paragraph as well. Providing them with both salt and fresh water allows them to regulate their salinity themselves, which is essential for maintaining their shell water and health.
Quality crab food and treats
In the wild, crabs are scavengers and will eat just about everything they come by, from plants to dead animals, but this doesn’t mean you can just feed table-scraps and roadkill to your crabbies! They have nutritional requirements just like every animal, so purchase quality commercial crab food and crab treats. If the food comes in pellets, you will need to crush it so the smaller crabs can eat it. You should also add crushed cuttlebone or calcium-sand to the food for a calcium boost. Additionally, you can create your own treats for crabs using the following crab-safe foods: fruit (except acidic fruits such as citrus or tomatoes), especially mangoes, coconuts and papayas; vegetables; nuts; applesauce; raisins; trail mix; peanut butter; honey; cooked egg and meat; fresh fish and shellfish; cereal; crackers; washed leaves and bark of deciduous trees; washed grass; un-buttered popcorn (avoid dairy products); dried shrimp and plankton; and fish flakes.
Accessorize!
They’re climbers!
Yep, crabs love to climb, exercise, and practice acrobatics, so they’ll need some toys to climb on. Cholla wood, cork bark, and large coral are their favorites, as they are both easy for them to grab on to, and they make a good snack! They will also climb driftwood and wicker baskets. All of these can be found in the reptile and fish sections of pet stores. Make sure any climbing toys are strong enough to support the weight of the crab.
My spot!
Just like everyone else, each crab needs their own little “spot” – a safe place to retreat to for sleeping and to relieve stress. You’ll need to provide some type of shelter, such as a hollow half-log, plastic cave, or coco-hut. Crabs will also hide behind fake plants. You should have enough hidey-space for each crab, otherwise your crabitat may be too crowded and this will stress the crabs.
Are they always this active?
Hermit crabs are nocturnal, which means they are most active in the evening or at night, and often hide during the day. Sometimes crabs just need time to get adjusted or relieve stress, and will bury themselves for a week or hide in a corner. Crabs love to explore, so re-arranging the tank will often entice them to play around. You can also create a play-pen and place them in there for a few hours and watch them play. But keep an eye on them, or they might escape!
Take care of your babies!
Daily fun
Assuming you provide your crabbies with a proper environment, they require relatively low maintenance. You should check the temperature and humidity every day and make adjustments as necessary. For instance, if the humidity is too high, you can prop open the glass cover a bit, or remove a small amount of saran wrap from the mesh. If the humidity is too low, you can prop the cover less, add more saran wrap, add another sponge to the water bowl, or mist the tank lightly with a spray bottle filled with dechlorinated water. You should also remove any fresh food treats from the previous day to prevent spoilage.
Weekly fun
Every week, you should replace the water and food and swap sponges. Rinse the old sponge in water, and then let it dry. Once it is completely dry, microwave it for a couple minutes to sterilize it (don’t microwave a wet sponge!). You should also spot-clean poo from the tank (looks like tiny brown macaroni). If the sand is fine enough, this can be accomplished easily with a fish net.
Deep cleans
You will need to clean or replace your substrate once every 2 to 6 months. If you are going to clean it, you should rinse it under water until it is clean of debris, and then bake it at 300 degrees for 45 minutes. You should also wash the crab toys. Cholla, driftwood, and cork can be microwaved for a couple of minutes while wet to kill any bacteria or mold.
Bath time!
If you do not have sufficiently sized water bowls in the tank for crabs to bathe themselves, you should give the unburied crabs an occasional bath. It helps flush out their shells, wet their gills, and clean their bums, but can be stressful. Prepare room-temperature water deep enough to immerse you crabbies, and use a dechlorinator that also has a protective slime coat. This helps restore the slime coating on their gills. Do not use it in their regular drinking water though. Place each crab in the water on their back, and when they flip up they’ll flush out their shell. Let them walk around for a minute, and then place them in a container with some paper towels to dry off.
Molting time!
Hermit crabs don’t grow like people. About once every few months to a year, they have to shed their exoskeleton and grow a new one. This is called molting, and it is a very stressful time for your crab. Some warning signs include an ashy texture, blurry eyes, confused antennae, a water sac (looks like a black jelly bean just behind their back left leg), digging, and spending a lot of time around the water dish. If a crab is missing a leg, you might see a small ball of clear gel begin to grow – your crabbie may regenerate its leg during the molt! Some crabbers will place pre-molters in a separate tank, called an ISO, to help them through this difficult time. High humidity and warmth are essential to a successful molt. Your crab will likely dump water on the sand and completely bury so you can’t even find him anymore. You should not regularly dig up buried crabs, because it can be stressful to disturb a molting crab. If your crab molts on the surface, you should cover him with the top-half of a pop bottle (with the cap open for air) to prevent the other crabs from bothering him. If you pick up a molter, it may look like a dead crab falling out. Check way back in the shell for a newly molted crab before starting the funeral; the “dead crab” may have just been his exoskeleton! He will need to eat the old exoskeleton in order to regain the lost calcium and nutrients, so don’t take it away. Anywhere from a week to a month later, his new exoskeleton will finish hardening, and you’ll have a brand-spankin’-shiny-new hermit crab strutting his stuff!
Learn more, and talk with your crabbing buddies!
There’s a whole community of crab-lovers out there. Any time you have a problem, or want to learn more about hermit crabs and crab care, or just want to chat with other crab owners, stop by one of these websites:
www.hermit-crabs.com
www.landhermitcrabs.com
www.hermitcrabassociation.com
© 2004 Ashley Wise; JediMasterThrash@comcast.net
Permission granted to print, copy, and distribute this document as necessary to promote proper hermit crab care.
Basic Hermit Crab Care Checklist
Hermit crabs are a fun, fascinating exotic pet. Hermit crabs will provide endless amusement, from feeler wars to acrobatic climbing, hole digging, staring at you with those beady eyes, and general crabitat mayhem. Hermit crabs breathe through modified gills, and require that their gills be moist at all times. Therefore, the humidity of the crab tank needs to be kept high or they will slowly suffocate Below 60% is dangerous (but above 80% promotes mold). Hermit crabs come from tropical regions, and need to stay warm. If the temperature falls below 70 degrees, they become dormant. Hermit crabs have soft, delicate abdomens, and protect them by wearing discarded shells. Hermit crabs spend much of their lives on ocean beaches, and require salt water in addition to fresh water. Finally, hermit crabs grow by molting – the process of shedding their exoskeleton and growing a new one. They require a substrate they can bury in, a good calcium source, and high humidity to survive this difficult process.
The official Hermit Crab Association recommends the following supplies (easily found at pet stores and on-line) in order to ensure the health, happiness, and longevity of your hermit crabs:
A friend! Hermit crabs are social and will get lonely without a friend or two or ten.
Glass aquarium or terrarium (plastic/wire cages are too small and don’t hold in warmth and humidity).
Glass or plexi-glass cover for the aquarium, or a mesh cover with 70% of it covered with saran wrap to keep in humidity.
Humidity gauge (hygrometer) to make sure the tank stays around 70-80% relative humidity.
Temperature gauge (thermometer) to make sure the tank stays around 72-79 degrees F.
Under-tank heater or low-wattage (15-25W) incandescent moon- or night-glow bulbs for heat.
Either half or all the tank filled with a diggable substrate such as playsand, beach sand, compressed coconut fiber, or fine crushed coral. Crabs need to bury themselves to molt and relieve stress, and also for fun.
Optionally half the tank filled with smooth aquarium-safe gravel to give the crabs an option. Calcium-sand, bark, wood chips, and dirt are not suitable for substrates.
Extra shells – at least 2 of each size needed by your crabs – to allow them to grow up, have fun shell-shopping, and to prevent shell fights.
Food dish filled with quality commercial crab food and treats.
Crushed cuttlebone or calcium-sand sprinkled in the food as a calcium supplement.
Occasional fresh food dish with fruit (no citrus), veggies, nuts, and cereal (no dairy).
Freshwater bowl (non-metal) with a sponge (to disperse humidity and so smaller crabs don’t drown).
Dechlorinizer or water conditioner, since the chlorine in tap water is dangerous to crabs.
Saln00ber bowl with a sponge (to maintain the proper salinity of their internal and shell water).
Marine salt found with saln00ber aquarium supplies (do not use table salt; the iodine in it is harmful to crabs). Additionally, the saln00ber must also be dechlorinated.
Climbing toys, such as cholla wood, cork bark, coral, driftwood, and wicker baskets.
Hiding shelters such as half-logs, caves, and coco-huts (they need a place to feel safe and relieve stress).
Misting bottle to give the tank an occasional humidity boost.
Dechlorinizer with a protective slime coat for bathing crabs once a week or month (helps their modified gills, but don’t use it for the drinking water).
www.hermit-crabs.com
www.landhermitcrabs.com
www.hermitcrabassociation.com
© 2004 Ashley Wise; JediMasterThrash@comcast.net
The official Hermit Crab Association recommends the following supplies (easily found at pet stores and on-line) in order to ensure the health, happiness, and longevity of your hermit crabs:
A friend! Hermit crabs are social and will get lonely without a friend or two or ten.
Glass aquarium or terrarium (plastic/wire cages are too small and don’t hold in warmth and humidity).
Glass or plexi-glass cover for the aquarium, or a mesh cover with 70% of it covered with saran wrap to keep in humidity.
Humidity gauge (hygrometer) to make sure the tank stays around 70-80% relative humidity.
Temperature gauge (thermometer) to make sure the tank stays around 72-79 degrees F.
Under-tank heater or low-wattage (15-25W) incandescent moon- or night-glow bulbs for heat.
Either half or all the tank filled with a diggable substrate such as playsand, beach sand, compressed coconut fiber, or fine crushed coral. Crabs need to bury themselves to molt and relieve stress, and also for fun.
Optionally half the tank filled with smooth aquarium-safe gravel to give the crabs an option. Calcium-sand, bark, wood chips, and dirt are not suitable for substrates.
Extra shells – at least 2 of each size needed by your crabs – to allow them to grow up, have fun shell-shopping, and to prevent shell fights.
Food dish filled with quality commercial crab food and treats.
Crushed cuttlebone or calcium-sand sprinkled in the food as a calcium supplement.
Occasional fresh food dish with fruit (no citrus), veggies, nuts, and cereal (no dairy).
Freshwater bowl (non-metal) with a sponge (to disperse humidity and so smaller crabs don’t drown).
Dechlorinizer or water conditioner, since the chlorine in tap water is dangerous to crabs.
Saln00ber bowl with a sponge (to maintain the proper salinity of their internal and shell water).
Marine salt found with saln00ber aquarium supplies (do not use table salt; the iodine in it is harmful to crabs). Additionally, the saln00ber must also be dechlorinated.
Climbing toys, such as cholla wood, cork bark, coral, driftwood, and wicker baskets.
Hiding shelters such as half-logs, caves, and coco-huts (they need a place to feel safe and relieve stress).
Misting bottle to give the tank an occasional humidity boost.
Dechlorinizer with a protective slime coat for bathing crabs once a week or month (helps their modified gills, but don’t use it for the drinking water).
www.hermit-crabs.com
www.landhermitcrabs.com
www.hermitcrabassociation.com
© 2004 Ashley Wise; JediMasterThrash@comcast.net
Basic Hermit Crab Care
v Yay! I’m getting a hermit crab!
Congratulations on choosing one of my favorite exotic pets! Hermit crabs are clean, disease-free, cute, fun, and inexpensive. Hermit crabs come from tropical regions; therefore, they have a few easy, yet essential requirements for their “home away from home” (which we like to call a crabitat). Once these basic requirements are met, you will find hermit crabs to be a relatively simple yet rewarding pet to care for.
Provided the proper high humidity level, a substrate they can dig in, and plenty of fresh and salt water, food, toys, and extra shells, your hermit crab will live up to 25 years and grow from the size of a marble to the size of a baseball!
Which one do I pick?
First, don’t pick just one! Unlike their name would suggest, “hermit” crabs are actually quite social, and get lonely without friends. Crab companions should only be other hermit crabs though; do not place them in the same tank as other reptiles, amphibians, or mammals. A healthy crab will come out of its shell and wave its antennae happily when you place it on your hand (hold your hand flat so it can’t pinch!). Some crabs get scared when you pick them up and stay tight in their shell. If you have observed the crab walking around with its antennae waving, it should be healthy, and with patience will learn not to be scared of you. With practice, you can even hand-feed them!
What kind is it?
All land hermit crab species (except the giant coconut crab) begin with the name Coenobita (C.). They are born in the ocean, but quickly grow up to live on ocean beaches as well as further inland. Do not confuse them with marine hermit crabs, which spend their whole lives in the ocean. The most common kind is the Purple Pincher (C. Clypeatus), which has a big purple pincher with light-orange to dark-red legs. Another kind you are likely to find is the Ecuadorian (C. Compressus), which has smaller claws, gray-green to tan coloring, and big eyes that look like “<)”. Recently, Ruggies (C. Rugosus) and Indos (C. Brevimanus) have been gaining popularity. Ruggies come in all colors of the rainbow and have stitch-marks on their big claw and a big, bright back left leg. Indos are uniform lavender to dark purple with an unusually large big pincher. Different species can be mixed together, but you should have at least two of each species.
v So, I need some supplies, right?
Yep. You’ll need something from each of the following categories, available at pet stores and on-line:
Hermie needs warmth and humidity!
Humidity gauge (hygrometer)
Hermit crabs breathe using modified gills: not quite fish gills; not quite human lungs. Their gills must remain moist at all times or they will slowly suffocate. It is therefore essential that their crabitat have sufficient humidity. A humidity gauge, which can be purchased with reptile supplies, is one of the most important crab supplies. Ideal humidity is between 70 and 80% relative. By contrast, most houses are only at 40-50%. Do not let your crabs go below 60% for extended periods of time. Also, do not let your crabitat stay above 80%, or you might get fuzzy mold.
Temperature Gauge (thermometer)
Along with humidity, our tropical friend needs warmth. The ideal temperature is between 72 and 79 degrees F. If the temperature falls below 70 degrees for too long, they begin to go dormant. However, unlike hibernating bears, crabbies don’t always survive their dormant state if left cold too long.
Under-tank heater or moon/night glow bulbs
One of the more common ways to keep your crabitat warm is to use an under-tank heater (UTH). If you place it on one side of the bottom of the tank, it gives them an option of a cool side and a warm side. The UTH will keep the sand warm, but not the air, so the temperature gauge may not register much change. You can feel the sand with your hand though to make sure it’s not cold. Heat lamps should not be used because they dry out the tank too much, fluorescent lights don’t raise the temperature enough, and heat rocks can burn your hermies. However, low-wattage (15w to 25w) incandescent bulbs in the tank lid work very well at keeping the air and ground warm. Special night- or moon-glow bulbs are the best (since crabs are nocturnal), and they can be kept on at night.
Crabby needs a home!
Glass aquarium or terrarium
This is by far the best home for your crab. The glass helps keep the temperature stable, and is easy to clean. A 10 gallon tank is very cheap, and an ideal starter-home. A cover for the tank is essential, as it keeps in the extra humidity crabs need to survive. A glass or plexi-glass cover is ideal, but a cheaper mesh cover will also work – provided that you seal about 70% of the mesh with saran wrap to keep in the humidity. A glass cover should be propped open slightly to allow air circulation.
Critter keepers
These plastic cages are not recommended as permanent homes, but will work as temporary homes, for transportation, or to isolate molting or sick crabs. They are typically more expensive than a similarly sized glass tank, and the plastic does not retain heat well and breaks easily. The slotted-cover will need to be mostly sealed with saran wrap to keep in humidity – the same as with mesh aquarium covers. Also, wire cages are never a good home.
Crab-approved substrates
Crabs don’t just walk on their substrate, they dig in it! Crabs need to be able to dig and bury themselves to relieve stress, molt, and, well, just for fun! Your substrate needs to be deeper than – preferably twice as deep as – your largest crab. When molting season comes around, you’ll be fascinated by the holes and mounds in your substrate.
Sand
Sand is probably one of the best substrates for hermit crabs. When it gets moist, it’s like building a sand castle; the crabs have an easy time playing in it. Playsand, sandblasting sand, and beach sand all work well. Playsand is cheap enough (a couple dollars for 50lbs) that you can just replace it once a month rather than clean it. The downside to sand is that it can be messy. You can bake the sand if you’re worried that it’s contaminated with mildew or bugs.
Compressed coconut fiber
This type of substrate comes in brick-shaped blocks. When soaked in water, it expands to fill a tank. Crabs love molting in this stuff, but it has the tendency to bring bugs and insects into the tank during the summer. If you choose to try this, it is recommended that it’s kept in a separate container, with the rest of the tank filled with sand or gravel. This way the mess is contained, and crabs who don’t like it can have an option.
Crushed coral
This substrate is often used for reef tanks, and can be expensive, but provides a great source of calcium. The fine-grained crushed coral is easier for the crabs to dig in than the coarse-grained type (it comes in both varieties).
Gravel
Some crabs don’t like to walk on messy sand or coco-fiber all day, so gravel is a good option to give them. The crabs still need something to dig in, so you should provide one of the diggable substrates as well, either in a half-n-half setting, or place one in a separate container or partition. The gravel must be smooth to the touch, or it can scratch the crabs’ legs, and it must say “aquarium safe” on the bag.
Calcium-carbonate sand
While this sand provides an excellent source of calcium for your crabs, it clumps like cat litter when moistened, so it is unsuitable as a primary substrate, but could be used as an option in a separate container, or sprinkled in the food.
Bark, wood chips, and dirt
None of these are good substrates. Bark and wood chips keep the tank too dry, will mold if wet, and crabs can’t properly dig in them. Aromatic woods such as cedar and pine can be harmful to crabs. Dirt will have microbes.
Extra shells
Hermit crabs have a soft, delicate abdomen. In order to keep it protected, they wear shells on their backs. These shells are not a physical part of the crab; rather they are borrowed from other shellfish. As the crab grows, it will need to move into bigger and bigger shells. Some crabs just love to change shells for fun, or to find a better fit. The perfect sized shell has a circular or oval shaped opening the size of the crab’s big pincher; however, some crabs enjoy shells that are either too big or too small for them. Crabs cannot fit their bodies into shells that have thin openings. You should provide at least two shells of each size needed by your crabs. If a crab does not have enough shell choices, he may try to force another crab out of its shell and steal it. Neither you (nor another crab!) should ever try to force a crab out of its shell. Shells should be boiled in water before given to crabs to ensure they are clean.
Crabs gotta eat and drink too!
Food and water dishes
You’ll need to provide three bowls or dishes in your crabitat: one for food, one for fresh water, and one for salt-water. Don’t use metal dishes, because metal in their water is harmful. Be aware that lighter dishes will occasionally be overturned by the crabs! The water dishes need to be big enough to fit a sponge as well as a bathing crab, and to hold enough water to maintain the humidity level of the tank. If you have small crabs, you will need a sponge or rocks in the bottom of the bowl so they don’t drown.
Sponges
You’ll need at least two sponges. One sponge should always be in the water bowl because it helps disperse the necessary humidity throughout the tank. The other sponge is so that you can swap them once or twice a week – if a sponge sits wet too long, it can grow harmful bacteria.
De-chlorinated water
If you want to use tap water or bottled drinking water, you’ll need to purchase a dechlorinizer/water conditioner (commonly available with fish supplies). Place a few drops (read the label) into a gallon water jug, stir, and let it sit overnight. This will last for a month. The chlorine and other chemicals in tap water can otherwise be harmful to the crabs. Bottled natural spring water is also OK. There is some concern that distilled or RO water may not have all the nutrients crabs need.
Salt-water
Most species of hermit crabs live on beaches, and thus require a source of salt-water. Do not use table salt however – the iodine is dangerous to them! Use marine salt, which is sold with fish supplies. It is usually purchased in bags or tubs, and usually one-half cup of salt (read the label, 1lb ~ 1cup) makes one gallon of water. You also need to dechlorinate the salt-water, so follow the above paragraph as well. Providing them with both salt and fresh water allows them to regulate their salinity themselves, which is essential for maintaining their shell water and health.
Quality crab food and treats
In the wild, crabs are scavengers and will eat just about everything they come by, from plants to dead animals, but this doesn’t mean you can just feed table-scraps and roadkill to your crabbies! They have nutritional requirements just like every animal, so purchase quality commercial crab food and crab treats. If the food comes in pellets, you will need to crush it so the smaller crabs can eat it. You should also add crushed cuttlebone or calcium-sand to the food for a calcium boost. Additionally, you can create your own treats for crabs using the following crab-safe foods: fruit (except acidic fruits such as citrus or tomatoes), especially mangoes, coconuts and papayas; vegetables; nuts; applesauce; raisins; trail mix; peanut butter; honey; cooked egg and meat; fresh fish and shellfish; cereal; crackers; washed leaves and bark of deciduous trees; washed grass; un-buttered popcorn (avoid dairy products); dried shrimp and plankton; and fish flakes.
Accessorize!
They’re climbers!
Yep, crabs love to climb, exercise, and practice acrobatics, so they’ll need some toys to climb on. Cholla wood, cork bark, and large coral are their favorites, as they are both easy for them to grab on to, and they make a good snack! They will also climb driftwood and wicker baskets. All of these can be found in the reptile and fish sections of pet stores. Make sure any climbing toys are strong enough to support the weight of the crab.
My spot!
Just like everyone else, each crab needs their own little “spot” – a safe place to retreat to for sleeping and to relieve stress. You’ll need to provide some type of shelter, such as a hollow half-log, plastic cave, or coco-hut. Crabs will also hide behind fake plants. You should have enough hidey-space for each crab, otherwise your crabitat may be too crowded and this will stress the crabs.
Are they always this active?
Hermit crabs are nocturnal, which means they are most active in the evening or at night, and often hide during the day. Sometimes crabs just need time to get adjusted or relieve stress, and will bury themselves for a week or hide in a corner. Crabs love to explore, so re-arranging the tank will often entice them to play around. You can also create a play-pen and place them in there for a few hours and watch them play. But keep an eye on them, or they might escape!
Take care of your babies!
Daily fun
Assuming you provide your crabbies with a proper environment, they require relatively low maintenance. You should check the temperature and humidity every day and make adjustments as necessary. For instance, if the humidity is too high, you can prop open the glass cover a bit, or remove a small amount of saran wrap from the mesh. If the humidity is too low, you can prop the cover less, add more saran wrap, add another sponge to the water bowl, or mist the tank lightly with a spray bottle filled with dechlorinated water. You should also remove any fresh food treats from the previous day to prevent spoilage.
Weekly fun
Every week, you should replace the water and food and swap sponges. Rinse the old sponge in water, and then let it dry. Once it is completely dry, microwave it for a couple minutes to sterilize it (don’t microwave a wet sponge!). You should also spot-clean poo from the tank (looks like tiny brown macaroni). If the sand is fine enough, this can be accomplished easily with a fish net.
Deep cleans
You will need to clean or replace your substrate once every 2 to 6 months. If you are going to clean it, you should rinse it under water until it is clean of debris, and then bake it at 300 degrees for 45 minutes. You should also wash the crab toys. Cholla, driftwood, and cork can be microwaved for a couple of minutes while wet to kill any bacteria or mold.
Bath time!
If you do not have sufficiently sized water bowls in the tank for crabs to bathe themselves, you should give the unburied crabs an occasional bath. It helps flush out their shells, wet their gills, and clean their bums, but can be stressful. Prepare room-temperature water deep enough to immerse you crabbies, and use a dechlorinator that also has a protective slime coat. This helps restore the slime coating on their gills. Do not use it in their regular drinking water though. Place each crab in the water on their back, and when they flip up they’ll flush out their shell. Let them walk around for a minute, and then place them in a container with some paper towels to dry off.
Molting time!
Hermit crabs don’t grow like people. About once every few months to a year, they have to shed their exoskeleton and grow a new one. This is called molting, and it is a very stressful time for your crab. Some warning signs include an ashy texture, blurry eyes, confused antennae, a water sac (looks like a black jelly bean just behind their back left leg), digging, and spending a lot of time around the water dish. If a crab is missing a leg, you might see a small ball of clear gel begin to grow – your crabbie may regenerate its leg during the molt! Some crabbers will place pre-molters in a separate tank, called an ISO, to help them through this difficult time. High humidity and warmth are essential to a successful molt. Your crab will likely dump water on the sand and completely bury so you can’t even find him anymore. You should not regularly dig up buried crabs, because it can be stressful to disturb a molting crab. If your crab molts on the surface, you should cover him with the top-half of a pop bottle (with the cap open for air) to prevent the other crabs from bothering him. If you pick up a molter, it may look like a dead crab falling out. Check way back in the shell for a newly molted crab before starting the funeral; the “dead crab” may have just been his exoskeleton! He will need to eat the old exoskeleton in order to regain the lost calcium and nutrients, so don’t take it away. Anywhere from a week to a month later, his new exoskeleton will finish hardening, and you’ll have a brand-spankin’-shiny-new hermit crab strutting his stuff!
Learn more, and talk with your crabbing buddies!
There’s a whole community of crab-lovers out there. Any time you have a problem, or want to learn more about hermit crabs and crab care, or just want to chat with other crab owners, stop by one of these websites:
www.hermit-crabs.com
www.landhermitcrabs.com
www.hermitcrabassociation.com
© 2004 Ashley Wise; JediMasterThrash@comcast.net
Permission granted to print, copy, and distribute this document as necessary to promote proper hermit crab care.
Basic Hermit Crab Care Checklist
Hermit crabs are a fun, fascinating exotic pet. Hermit crabs will provide endless amusement, from feeler wars to acrobatic climbing, hole digging, staring at you with those beady eyes, and general crabitat mayhem. Hermit crabs breathe through modified gills, and require that their gills be moist at all times. Therefore, the humidity of the crab tank needs to be kept high or they will slowly suffocate Below 60% is dangerous (but above 80% promotes mold). Hermit crabs come from tropical regions, and need to stay warm. If the temperature falls below 70 degrees, they become dormant. Hermit crabs have soft, delicate abdomens, and protect them by wearing discarded shells. Hermit crabs spend much of their lives on ocean beaches, and require salt water in addition to fresh water. Finally, hermit crabs grow by molting – the process of shedding their exoskeleton and growing a new one. They require a substrate they can bury in, a good calcium source, and high humidity to survive this difficult process.
The official Hermit Crab Association recommends the following supplies (easily found at pet stores and on-line) in order to ensure the health, happiness, and longevity of your hermit crabs:
A friend! Hermit crabs are social and will get lonely without a friend or two or ten.
Glass aquarium or terrarium (plastic/wire cages are too small and don’t hold in warmth and humidity).
Glass or plexi-glass cover for the aquarium, or a mesh cover with 70% of it covered with saran wrap to keep in humidity.
Humidity gauge (hygrometer) to make sure the tank stays around 70-80% relative humidity.
Temperature gauge (thermometer) to make sure the tank stays around 72-79 degrees F.
Under-tank heater or low-wattage (15-25W) incandescent moon- or night-glow bulbs for heat.
Either half or all the tank filled with a diggable substrate such as playsand, beach sand, compressed coconut fiber, or fine crushed coral. Crabs need to bury themselves to molt and relieve stress, and also for fun.
Optionally half the tank filled with smooth aquarium-safe gravel to give the crabs an option. Calcium-sand, bark, wood chips, and dirt are not suitable for substrates.
Extra shells – at least 2 of each size needed by your crabs – to allow them to grow up, have fun shell-shopping, and to prevent shell fights.
Food dish filled with quality commercial crab food and treats.
Crushed cuttlebone or calcium-sand sprinkled in the food as a calcium supplement.
Occasional fresh food dish with fruit (no citrus), veggies, nuts, and cereal (no dairy).
Freshwater bowl (non-metal) with a sponge (to disperse humidity and so smaller crabs don’t drown).
Dechlorinizer or water conditioner, since the chlorine in tap water is dangerous to crabs.
Saln00ber bowl with a sponge (to maintain the proper salinity of their internal and shell water).
Marine salt found with saln00ber aquarium supplies (do not use table salt; the iodine in it is harmful to crabs). Additionally, the saln00ber must also be dechlorinated.
Climbing toys, such as cholla wood, cork bark, coral, driftwood, and wicker baskets.
Hiding shelters such as half-logs, caves, and coco-huts (they need a place to feel safe and relieve stress).
Misting bottle to give the tank an occasional humidity boost.
Dechlorinizer with a protective slime coat for bathing crabs once a week or month (helps their modified gills, but don’t use it for the drinking water).
www.hermit-crabs.com
www.landhermitcrabs.com
www.hermitcrabassociation.com
© 2004 Ashley Wise; JediMasterThrash@comcast.net
The official Hermit Crab Association recommends the following supplies (easily found at pet stores and on-line) in order to ensure the health, happiness, and longevity of your hermit crabs:
A friend! Hermit crabs are social and will get lonely without a friend or two or ten.
Glass aquarium or terrarium (plastic/wire cages are too small and don’t hold in warmth and humidity).
Glass or plexi-glass cover for the aquarium, or a mesh cover with 70% of it covered with saran wrap to keep in humidity.
Humidity gauge (hygrometer) to make sure the tank stays around 70-80% relative humidity.
Temperature gauge (thermometer) to make sure the tank stays around 72-79 degrees F.
Under-tank heater or low-wattage (15-25W) incandescent moon- or night-glow bulbs for heat.
Either half or all the tank filled with a diggable substrate such as playsand, beach sand, compressed coconut fiber, or fine crushed coral. Crabs need to bury themselves to molt and relieve stress, and also for fun.
Optionally half the tank filled with smooth aquarium-safe gravel to give the crabs an option. Calcium-sand, bark, wood chips, and dirt are not suitable for substrates.
Extra shells – at least 2 of each size needed by your crabs – to allow them to grow up, have fun shell-shopping, and to prevent shell fights.
Food dish filled with quality commercial crab food and treats.
Crushed cuttlebone or calcium-sand sprinkled in the food as a calcium supplement.
Occasional fresh food dish with fruit (no citrus), veggies, nuts, and cereal (no dairy).
Freshwater bowl (non-metal) with a sponge (to disperse humidity and so smaller crabs don’t drown).
Dechlorinizer or water conditioner, since the chlorine in tap water is dangerous to crabs.
Saln00ber bowl with a sponge (to maintain the proper salinity of their internal and shell water).
Marine salt found with saln00ber aquarium supplies (do not use table salt; the iodine in it is harmful to crabs). Additionally, the saln00ber must also be dechlorinated.
Climbing toys, such as cholla wood, cork bark, coral, driftwood, and wicker baskets.
Hiding shelters such as half-logs, caves, and coco-huts (they need a place to feel safe and relieve stress).
Misting bottle to give the tank an occasional humidity boost.
Dechlorinizer with a protective slime coat for bathing crabs once a week or month (helps their modified gills, but don’t use it for the drinking water).
www.hermit-crabs.com
www.landhermitcrabs.com
www.hermitcrabassociation.com
© 2004 Ashley Wise; JediMasterThrash@comcast.net